Kosovo
Getting an opportunity to testify a part of Europe's recent History
March 2006
This is the log I held on the second “Yes For Democracy” show going to Kosovo this time. War zones are chosen for these events as the content is crafted towards young democracies helped by the West… and we need the support of the army for our logistics but also their protection.
Jeannot the brain behind this project is unfortunately in a deep coma since a recent car accident. His partner Christophe decided to move forward as planned, Jeannot would have wanted it to happen, so we’re off for the site visit.
March 27th
- 08.30 am - Christophe calls me to announce the plane will be delayed by at least two hours. I go and grab some stuff to read before heading to the Military Airport. I finally meet Nadia Jaumotte that I have been speaking with over the phone for the last few weeks. She will assist Christophe. I’m also introduced to Major Luc Geers who will be our “tour-guide” for this one.
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We will be travelling in militray Airbus A310 this time, as there is no gear to ship but people: 100 Belgian soldiers, a few dozen Luxemburgers and a few Americans to supplement or replace troops in the Kosovo Peace Maintenance Program of the NATO.
- 01.15 pm - We finally take off, direction Pristina. Luc seems to be a very cheerful guy, hey starts by getting us in the business class seats. - 03.30 pm - We’re flying over the Adriatic Sea, sign of near arrival. |
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The military convoy made up of UN vehicles, army busses for the troops, Military Police SUV’s and ourselves in the “Dinky” (pictured to the left), all head off for an hour-long route to Mitrovica where the French army has set up a camp on a strategic hill location.
- 07.00 pm - We’re shown our “Modular-container” rooms, then introduced to the local Belgian commandment. After that, diner, then a visit to the Belgian bar, then the French one...
22.00 - Bars close, all to the bedrooms.
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March 28th
- 07.30 am - Awake and breakfast before meeting a bunch of people that will be able to help with the technical side of things. Nadia, Christophe and Luc go off to Pristina.
We get back together for lunch, Nadia and Christophe have already secured 20 potential candidates, Albanese students, they now need to find Serbs in order to represent both local communities.
After a coffee at the French bar, I head off to the camp's logistics zone to see what stuff they can provide us with. I’ve been told I’m not allowed to leave the base camp and I need approval that only Major Luc can give.
As you don’t get anything without trying… I anyway head off for a 1 kilometre country-side walk to the logistics zone where they do everything from maintaining the vehicles and gear to building custom devices needed by the troops.
They don’t really have tents out here that could accommodate our event, like we did in Kabul. I’ll have to find another solution.
Back at the camp I meet Adjudant Pholien in charge of Communications.
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Later in the evening we gather at the French bar for a couple beers, Nadia introduces us to Claude Bartes from the French army (to the left), a good friend of her father. |
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March 29th
After breakfast I wait for Commandant Madile to finish his security briefing before we can discuss at how we will proceed with the event. We will finally try and do it in one of the small meeting rooms of the camp.
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In the afternoon I go to Pristina with the rest of the team.
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While they're at the university to deepen their local knowlaedge, I tour the city center.
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Later on, when I meet Nadia, Luc and Christophe again, we head of to the NATO Headquarters camp.
Just before entering the NATO camp we stop at “MiniMaxi” the kingdom of fake stuff. A real department store filled with fakes: software, games, DVD’s, branded apparel, designer wear, sports clothes, watches… And this is just one of those shops. They seem to be all over the country.
We are told by Luc that one of the main reasons for the NATO staying down here, now that peace has approximately settled, is to avoid all those black market goods to enter Europe and try and keep the organised crime networks from Albania down here.
We’re not really supposed to be here… but actually it’s filled with soldiers as we’re at the gates of the NATO HQ, however our vehicle shouldn’t have been parked here, Luc get’s a fine from the Military Police…
- 05.00 pm - We enter the NATO HQ to explain our project to the local NATO commander, a Finnish officer.
Where Kabul was a holiday camp, this is a 5-star resort, still with the kaki and the combat boots thought…
Each nation has a tax-free shop for the soldiers to buy pretty much whatever they need or want… You get at least as many bars, while barbecues wait at each street corner for a sun ray to peep out and be lit…
We hit the Belgian bar on Brussels street and grab a Leffe bier while we go through our project with the Finnish guy.
- 07.30 pm - We head back to our host-camp and go for diner at the “Le Panoramique” French gastronomy restaurant, situated righ on the camp ground for our last evening here. I’ll have an Ostrich carpaccio with green pepper sauce and then a veal filet with a Reblochon sauce and paprika potatoes a St-Estephe 2001 red Bordeaux will complement to keep our palates full-filled.
March 30th
- 05.30 am - We throw our bags in the truck and grab the breakfast-pack the canteen has prepared us then board the bus to the airport.
Just before entering the NATO camp we stop at “MiniMaxi” the kingdom of fake stuff. A real department store filled with fakes: software, games, DVD’s, branded apparel, designer wear, sports clothes, watches… And this is just one of those shops. They seem to be all over the country.
We are told by Luc that one of the main reasons for the NATO staying down here, now that peace has approximately settled, is to avoid all those black market goods to enter Europe and try and keep the organised crime networks from Albania down here.
We’re not really supposed to be here… but actually it’s filled with soldiers as we’re at the gates of the NATO HQ, however our vehicle shouldn’t have been parked here, Luc get’s a fine from the Military Police…
- 05.00 pm - We enter the NATO HQ to explain our project to the local NATO commander, a Finnish officer.
Where Kabul was a holiday camp, this is a 5-star resort, still with the kaki and the combat boots thought…
Each nation has a tax-free shop for the soldiers to buy pretty much whatever they need or want… You get at least as many bars, while barbecues wait at each street corner for a sun ray to peep out and be lit…
We hit the Belgian bar on Brussels street and grab a Leffe bier while we go through our project with the Finnish guy.
- 07.30 pm - We head back to our host-camp and go for diner at the “Le Panoramique” French gastronomy restaurant, situated righ on the camp ground for our last evening here. I’ll have an Ostrich carpaccio with green pepper sauce and then a veal filet with a Reblochon sauce and paprika potatoes a St-Estephe 2001 red Bordeaux will complement to keep our palates full-filled.
March 30th
- 05.30 am - We throw our bags in the truck and grab the breakfast-pack the canteen has prepared us then board the bus to the airport.
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After check-in we’re announced at least one hour delay. The reason: His Majesty Albert the Second, king of Belgium, wants to fly out so they’re closing Melsbroek military airport until he has cleared the ground…
The military call their air transport “Maybe Airlines”. We finally hit Belgian ground at 1.30pm. |
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Quite sadly this is the end of the adventure. Jeannot will pass out on April the 22nd 2006. Rest In Peace Jeannot. |
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